Searching for:
Search results: 251 of 1170
Case Studies | Thursday April 6, 2023
Leather-Linked Soy Deforestation
In partnership with Trase, the Responsible Luxury Initiative (ReLI) investigated the deforestation risk linked to its members’ leather supply chains via soy in cattle feed.
Case Studies | Thursday April 6, 2023
Leather-Linked Soy Deforestation
Preview
Introduction
Companies offering leather products can face direct and indirect risks of deforestation and land conversion. Businesses that supply them with leather goods might be sourcing leather from farms where forests have been cleared or natural lands have been converted to make way for cattle farming—a direct deforestation risk. Or, if the leather was sourced without direct deforestation or conversion from cattle rearing, the company could still be indirectly exposed to deforestation or conversion on land that was used to grow cattle feed.
The member companies of the Responsible Luxury Initiative (ReLI) in aggregate source significant volumes of leather from European countries compared to volumes from countries in other regions (e.g., South America). For cattle raised in European countries, direct deforestation or land conversion is not a primary concern. However, cattle raised on European ground could be fed with soy cultivated in South America, where forests have been cleared or lands converted to make space for agriculture. This creates an indirect link from European cattle leather sourcing to deforestation and land conversion. Because indirect links have not been well studied or understood, ReLI members decided to explore this topic.
Furthermore, the impending EU Deforestation-Free Supply Chain Regulation makes this a legal requirement. According to the regulation, deforestation-free expectations will apply to products that contain, have been fed with, or have been made using the commodities in scope. Operators placing in-scope products (referring to products in Annex 1 of the European Union Deforestation-Free Supply Chain Regulation) on the EU market must ensure that the feed is deforestation-free as part of their due diligence. When it comes to the leather supply chain, there are several products in scope, including live cattle and leather, at various stages of processing. In our interpretation, the operators responsible for due diligence related to soy feed will include cattle farmers, slaughterhouses, tanneries, leather producers of unfinished products, and brands who own any of these value chain stages.
Leather is likely to be one of the luxury industry’s raw materials with the highest deforestation risk; cattle production was identified as the largest driver of global deforestation by World Wildlife Fund. Although leather is a by-product of the beef industry and is not solely driving deforestation from cattle, leather buyers remain key supply chain players, are exposed to deforestation risk, and have a responsibility to address it.
ReLI investigated the deforestation risk linked to its members’ leather supply chains via soy in cattle feed. This research is focused specifically on soy that is embedded in leather sourced from Europe. Its objectives were to:
- Build a stronger understanding of the various implications of members’ sourcing activities
- Consider the most effective role members can play in working toward elimination of soy deforestation and land conversion given their downstream position.
The investigation entailed three key research steps:
- In partnership with Trase, we sought to understand the deforestation risk of soy embedded in the leather supply chains of ReLI members.
- We leveraged desk-based research to complement the Trase results to better characterize the risk for priority leather-producing countries (France, the Netherlands, Italy) and discuss opportunities to tackle soy deforestation and land conversion.
- We discussed our findings with deforestation experts to develop a view on the actions the industry can take to address soy deforestation and land conversion.
In this case study, we share the high-level results of that research and proposed next steps for action.
Establishing Transparency
In 2020, ReLI worked with Trase, a supply chain transparency initiative led by the Stockholm Environment Institute and Global Canopy, to gain better transparency into the levels of soy deforestation risk linked to their leather supply chains. In November 2022, Trase replaced the term "deforestation risk" with "deforestation exposure" as a measure of the exposure of supply chain actors to deforestation from commodity production based on their sourcing patterns.
Five ReLI member companies provided supply chain data to Trase, including the locations where they source leather, associated volumes of material, and locations of related actors in their supply chains. Location can refer to a farm, slaughterhouse, or a tannery, depending on the level of traceability of a given member company. The level of traceability was mixed, similar to the broader industry—some companies had visibility to farm level, others to tanneries or slaughterhouses. As expected, traceability to feed level was lacking. ReLI learned that France, the Netherlands, and Italy were the top leather-sourcing countries in aggregate for its members that provided supply chain data to Trase.
Trase's database has information on commodity flows, including data on production of soy in Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentina (three of the major soy producing countries with risk of deforestation), deforestation rates in these locations, and trade/export data to link soy deforestation to leather-producing (soy-importing) countries of interest. Members' supply chain data was combined with the Trase data, resulting in an estimate of soy deforestation risk exposure (at an aggregate and for each brand) associated with soy sourced from Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentina. This data was used to identify deforestation risk “hotspots” that would be priorities for supply chain or landscape-level attention. Figure 1 shows the data considered in the calculation and presents the analysis’ data gaps. These data gaps required making assumptions in the calculation of deforestation risks. For example, if companies were not able to provide data on the farm where cattle were raised, where reasonable, Trase assumed that downstream processing suppliers (e.g., abattoirs) were themselves sourcing locally.
Source: Trase

The Trase analysis identified clear differences in relative risk exposure across producer countries (those producing soy) and supplier countries (those potentially using/importing soy and supplying leather), but also areas of overlap around “hotspots” of risk. ReLI learned that the risk exposure is quite variable across source regions and countries importing soy. For example, the average deforestation risk in Paraguay (11.7m² per tonne) was higher than in Brazil (6.6m² per tonne) or Argentina (0.58m² per tonne), but European countries tend to source proportionally less soy from Paraguay (see Figure 2 for the sourcing percentages). Brazilian soy imported into Europe had a higher deforestation risk than the average deforestation level attached to soy produced in Brazil. This could be because Europe’s historic trade routes were linked to areas in the country that had higher deforestation rates. For example, for France, the deforestation risk attached to soy imports from Brazil was 9.08 m² per tonne, compared to 6.6m² per tonne on average. The details are summarized in the Figure 3.
Source: Trase

Figure 3: Deforestation Risk per Country
Source: Trase
Soy Production Country |
Average Deforestation Risk (m² per tonne) |
Deforestation Risk for Soy Imports |
||
France |
The Netherlands |
Italy |
||
Brazil |
6.6 |
9.08 |
7.12 |
9.91 |
Argentina |
0.58 |
0.66 |
0.60 |
0.69 |
Paraguay |
11.6 |
9.8 |
11.6 |
14.8 |
Figure 4 depicts the type of information we received from the Trase analysis of company data. The map indicates the deforestation risk in hectare per tonne for the ReLI consortium. In other words, it presents the distribution of deforestation linked to one tonne of soy bought in proportion to the ReLI companies’ sourcing patterns (i.e., weighted by volume of leather sourcing). Similar maps were provided for soy from Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay at an individual company level and collective group level. Without traceability to feed level, it is not possible to be certain on the deforestation risk associated with members’ supply chains. However, by drawing on a science-based metric to assess exposure to deforestation in supply chains, Trase can provide a plausible map based on information on production, trading, and other data from countries in members’ supply chains. Such findings are useful for targeting engagement with suppliers on deforestation.
More information on the Trase analysis can be found here.
Figure 4: ReLI Consortium Deforestation Risk per Tonne Bought from Brazil
Source: Trase

Characterizing the Risk
The ReLI team complemented the Trase analysis by studying cattle farming systems, feed profiles, and use of soy for the top leather-producing countries for the ReLI members that provided data (France, the Netherlands, and Italy).
First, we wanted to supplement the Trase data with additional quantification. From Trase, we received an estimation of the deforestation risk (m² of land per tonne of soy) for soy imported from Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina into France, the Netherlands, and Italy. However, not all imported soy is used for cattle feed—it may also be used for other livestock feed or for humans. One element of this research was to explore how imported soy is used in ReLI’s three priority leather-producing countries so that we could understand how important the risk of leather-linked deforestation via soy might be.
A key challenge was that publicly available data on the amount of imported soy that leather-producing countries used for cattle feed was difficult to find and/or rely on. As a result, we could not make an accurate estimation of the soy deforestation risk linked to cattle in these countries, though we feel confident in the general takeaway: While general global risk of deforestation due to soy production may be high, leather-linked soy deforestation risk across countries and companies is extremely fragmented. All companies sourcing forest-risk commodities in their supply chains have a responsibility to protect forest landscapes, but fragmentation of impact will limit individual influence. Collective action is needed.
Second, we developed a better qualitative understanding of the farming systems in the prioritized leather-producing countries to help us contextualize the soy use in cattle feed. For example, understanding the extent of intensive farming systems (high inputs compared to land area) versus extensive (more land under cultivation with lower inputs), or indoor versus outdoor cattle rearing, can help inform the best approach to engaging farmers on changing feed inputs.
Since the luxury industry commonly uses calf leather, we also investigated any unique considerations for calf rearing. For example, we confirmed that soy is used in calf feed and that the Netherlands is an important focal country for industry deforestation efforts considering its high levels of veal production and likely higher soy-related deforestation risk.
Finally, we identified several existing programs in France, the Netherlands, and Italy working to address soy deforestation, allowing us to think through opportunities for our members to work on farm-level initiatives in their supply chains.
Some sample high-level results of this research can be found in Figure 5.
France |
The Netherlands |
Italy |
||
France has the largest cattle farming system in Europe, meaning the most beef and dairy cows in the system, and is the second largest production country for veal (28 percent). Both beef and dairy cows are mainly fed grass over their lifetimes, though soy makes up anywhere from 0.6-2.5 percent of the cattle feeding system. France has a highly extensive system. The average farm in France has 56 cows, with more than half of the farms having 5-49 cows. |
The Netherlands is the top production country for veal in Europe (36 percent). The Netherlands has had intensive cattle farming systems—more than 3 in 10 Dutch cows were kept permanently indoors in 2012—but legislation is pushing the evolution toward extensive techniques. The dairy farming sector is the largest land user in the country, taking up 0.9 million hectares of land. The Dutch dairy sector collectively committed to 100 percent responsible soy and achieved this by requiring the purchase of Round Table on Responsible Soy (RTRS) credits in delivery terms. Only animal feed suppliers that buy credits for responsible soy are permitted to supply feed to Dutch dairy farmers. |
Italy is the fourth largest beef producer in Europe and the third largest production country for veal in Europe (13 percent). Farm sizes vary between regions, though there is a notable intensive system. Italy has been known for its role in the fattening stage. The Italian strategy of “safety from farm to table” from the Ministry of Health aims to ensure transparency of the supply chain to the farm level and between various actors, whether produced in the EU or imported. |
||
|
|
|
||
Impact
The completed research helped ReLI members better understand, define, and raise the visibility of the risk of embedded deforestation and land conversion related to their leather supply chains—a topic that previously was not fully understood. Companies indicated that this research is helpful for informing steps to expand the scope of individual deforestation and conversion commitments to include embedded materials, supporting companies in addressing all areas of significant risk. Companies also indicated that it has been helpful in establishing comprehensive corporate biodiversity strategies (e.g., aligned with SBTN).
The ReLI team presented this study to NGOs and deforestation experts to get their perspectives on the most effective role ReLI members can play in addressing soy deforestation. Stakeholders highlighted the brand influence of luxury companies and of groups such as ReLI, especially when working collectively, and the importance of them playing a role. Still, they did recognize that luxury companies are far downstream, and thus ReLI brands should clarify why they want to engage in soy-related deforestation and that collaboration with major sector players such as beef, dairy, and food retail will be key to enabling action.
Next Steps
First, ReLI would like to acknowledge the Call to Action released from Textile Exchange and Leather Working Group for companies to commit to deforestation- and conversion-free leather by 2030 or earlier. ReLI is supportive of this Call to Action; several ReLI members will align their leather deforestation commitments to those expectations. Based on the findings of this case study, ReLI also encourages companies to look beyond direct deforestation risk and expand the scope to embedded materials in leather supply chains, using the work described in this case study to inform their approach.
Recognizing the remaining data and traceability challenges, in 2023, ReLI will engage with key supply chain players (which may include France-, Netherlands-, and/or Italy-based slaughterhouses, farmer groups, feed initiatives, or other trade associations) to identify and evaluate ways that downstream companies like luxury brands can support tanneries, slaughterhouses, farmers, or other relevant players in the due diligence needed to achieve deforestation-free feed. These engagements will also prioritize opportunities for coordination with downstream players in the meat industry. ReLI will share additional relevant insights for the industry as this work continues.
This case study reviews a piece of work completed by the Responsible Luxury Initiative (ReLI) in 2022. ReLI is a collaboration of luxury sector companies. Its mission is to provide a platform to discuss, explore, and develop collaborative solutions for persistent and emerging sustainability issues in their value chains.
This case study was written by Cliodhnagh Conlon, Ricki Berkenfeld, and Sarah Cornelles, with guidance and insights provided by select ReLI members. The authors wish to thank Trase for collaborating on the research presented in this case study.
Please direct comments or questions to Cliodhnagh Conlon.
Blog | Wednesday April 5, 2023
Decoding Nature’s Soundscapes
Scientists are getting closer to understanding how organisms and ecosystems use sound (known as bioacoustics) to communicate. We share how bioacoustics can impact business.
Blog | Wednesday April 5, 2023
Decoding Nature’s Soundscapes
Preview
Using new technologies and artificial intelligence (AI)-powered analysis, scientists are getting closer to understanding how organisms and ecosystems use sound, or “bioacoustics,” to communicate. This new data could increase our understanding of adverse environmental impacts, support restoration efforts, and accelerate environmental monitoring. Business can anticipate increased scrutiny of the environmental impacts of their industry, including noise disturbance, as well as implications for sustainability reporting and ethical data use.
Listening to Nature
Can humans have interactive conversations with nature? Can we decode the language of animals, plants, or entire ecosystems? What would we hear and how would we use this information if we could?
Leveraging new technologies and AI, researchers are making headway toward interspecies communication. By recording and analyzing bioacoustics, or how organisms use and respond to sound, scientists are decoding complex communication in other species. With these new insights comes the potential to understand more fully the impacts of human systems in the natural world.
As it turns out, nature is leveraging sounds in remarkable ways. What was once considered silent, like marine organisms, plants, and even forests, are now known to use sound to listen to and communicate with the world. For example, when choosing a home, coral larvae use sound to identify healthy and unhealthy reefs from miles across the ocean. Plants use acoustic vibrations to send their roots toward water sources.
Further still, scientists are already finding ways to use bioacoustics research to break barriers between interspecies communication. For example, researchers are now deciphering the sounds of tomatoes to determine whether plants are dehydrated or wounded. Others have used AI and natural language processing to encode honeybee robots with honeybee language, enabling them to enter hives and communicate simple commands. They can even successfully share information around the hive to tell the bees where they should go to harvest nectar.
“As businesses grapple with how to assess, monitor, and mitigate damage to nature—particularly in upstream production—leveraging science such as bioacoustics can present a credible means to address degradation and biodiversity loss.”
-Laura Donnelly, Director, Nature
How Noise Impacts Nature
Among the intricate lessons from listening to natural systems, we are discovering the overarching macro impacts of human-generated noise on nature.
Studies have connected loud environments to increased risks of heart disease, heart attacks, and even dementia in people. Increasingly, research into bioacoustics is improving our understanding of how noise impacts nature as well.
Under the ocean, where species depend on sound to navigate their worlds, noise disturbance is particularly disruptive and even deadly. Noise from shipping, recreational boating, mining, and energy exploration can impact the ability of ocean animals to find mates, locate food, avoid predators, and communicate with each other.
For example, studies have shown that noise can disrupt the migration routes of whales, isolate them from their mates and peers, and even cause hearing loss. Even plants, like seagrass, are affected by noise: a recent study found that they suffer significant damage when exposed to even low-frequency artificial sounds. Combining this with the fact that noise can travel hundreds of miles from the source, marine noise disturbance can injure species far from its epicenter, including the species that live in the deep sea. In fact, extremely loud noises, like drilling, have been found to kill zooplankton almost three-quarters of a mile away.
Above ground, the acoustic chaos of industry is no better for the nature around it. At airports, for example, birds are losing their songs. They are also becoming more aggressive, which could indicate that noise disturbance can cause behavior changes and physiological stress in other species, just as it does with people. Similarly, studies have shown that drones can increase heart rates and impact the behavior of wildlife. Wind turbines are also found to produce noise that can impact wildlife and nearby habitats. One study suggests that mapping the presence of species and their auditory sensitivity should be required before constructing wind turbine farms.
Leveraging Bioacoustics for Good
Not only can decoding how natural systems experience and use sound expose the depths of our impacts on the planet; it could also help us to restore what has been harmed or lost.
Scientists are already using digital bioacoustics to support efforts to protect and regenerate nature. For example, acoustics technology can pinpoint the location of whales and alert ships when they are on a collision course. Studies have also shown that playing with the sounds of healthy coral reefs can attract young fish to abandoned reefs.
Above the water, scientists have used sound recordings of rainforests to monitor rainforest biodiversity and how wildlife may be impacted by events such as logging, or cutting trees down for timber. We also have a better understanding of how changes in the environment can impact natural communication systems. For example, reduced cloud cover or the loss of plant life can reduce the absorption of sound, which can increase noise and reverberation, confusing and disorienting local species. This has implications for climate change and how we monitor harmful business practices that can lead to biodiversity loss.
How Bioacoustics Can Change the Game for Sustainable Business
With the emerging ability to listen to nature, we can better gauge the health of species, ecosystems, and the wider natural environment. We can also better track climate change, biodiversity loss, and improve environmental monitoring.
Business should expect increased scrutiny of how operations can impact the health of natural systems, particularly affecting noisy industries, like resource extraction, travel and transportation, manufacturing, and construction.
New evidence of impacts could be used in litigation to defend Nature’s Rights, while acquiring approval for new developments might require a new level of due diligence. This might deter proposed mining of ocean floors to source minerals critical to new energies, particularly under the recently adopted High Seas Treaty, through which United Nations member countries have agreed to protect the ocean outside national boundaries.
Environmental and sustainability monitoring and reporting may also become more precise in how business should avoid and mitigate impacts to nature. Science Based Targets for Nature (SBTN), for example, aims to present companies with another avenue for assessing and addressing environmental impacts.
Through the emerging field of bioacoustics, scientists are rediscovering what Indigenous communities have long known through ongoing dialogue with the nonhuman world. As we mine data to potentially reconnect with nature, there is an opportunity for business to elevate Indigenous teachings. This comes with the responsibility to respect Indigenous data sovereignty as we harvest data in territories under Indigenous ownership and stewardship.
Can business use data to further interfere with natural systems for commercial gain? Could ecosystems be acoustically hacked? Or might we make “bioacoustic engineering errors,” prompting nature to act in ways that are misguided? What are the risks of using AI to interpret what the natural world is telling us? Now is the time to ask whether the potential to communicate with the natural world might lead to new risks of exploitation.
Reports | Monday April 3, 2023
AI and Human Rights in Retail
Explore human rights issues associated with the increased use of AI technology in the retail sector and recommendations to companies on how they can address the human rights impacts of AI in retail in BSR’s new report.
Reports | Monday April 3, 2023
AI and Human Rights in Retail
Preview
Introduction
Technological transformation brings complex, nuanced, and systemwide risks and opportunities for the realization of human rights. These risks and opportunities are related to both the design and development of technologies, as well as how technologies are deployed and used by companies, such as retailers.
As the retail industry continues its digital transformation, retailers need to consider the human rights impacts that may be associated with the use of artificial intelligence (AI) systems across their business and value chain. This may include the use of AI in retail stores to automate self-checkout, to personalize product recommendations on e-commerce sites, or to forecast demand and optimize supply chain operations.
This report identifies salient human rights issues associated with the increased use of AI technology in the retail sector and makes preliminary recommendations to companies on how they can address the human rights impacts of AI in retail.
Human Rights Impacts of AI in the Retail Industry
With the digital transformation of the retail industry, an increasing array of digital technologies are being used in combination to create automated processes, both in retail stores and in the retail supply chain. This transformation brings risks and opportunities for the realization of human rights that retailers need to consider.
Below, we list six main categories of human rights risk that may be associated with the use of AI technologies in the retail industry.
Human Rights That May Be Impacted
Insights+ | Tuesday March 28, 2023
Back to Nature: A Call to Action
Back to Nature: A Call to Action
Blog | Thursday March 23, 2023
Transform, Finance, and Adapt: What the IPCC Report Means for Credible Corporate Climate Action
The new IPCC synthesis report shows that we must speed up climate action. Explore six key ways business can act to meet the moment.
Blog | Thursday March 23, 2023
Transform, Finance, and Adapt: What the IPCC Report Means for Credible Corporate Climate Action
Preview
This week, the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) released the final part of its Sixth Assessment Report, which is intended to inform government climate targets and in-country policy planning. The synthesis report, approved by 195 countries, paints a stark picture of the climate crisis and draws a narrow path to a liveable and sustainable future. UN Secretary-General António Guterres simultaneously launched the Acceleration Agenda, a set of clear and urgent measures to tackle the climate change “time bomb.” Together, these are a powerful guide for credible corporate climate action in the decisive decade.
Key IPCC Takeaways
- Global greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions have continued to increase with “unequal historical and ongoing contributions.” The world has reached 1.1°C of warming, and current policies are projected to result in global warming of 3.2°C by the end of the century. “Global warming is more likely than not to reach 1.5°C” under any scenario in the near future.
- “Climate change is a threat to human well-being and planetary health.” We need immediate and coordinated action across sectors to secure a livable and sustainable future for all. Limiting human-caused global warming requires net-zero CO2 emissions, and decarbonization across the value chain is key.
- Human-related climate change is currently affecting weather and climate extremes, with clear impacts to nature, people, and the economy. Climate impacts are more severe than previously expected and will accelerate with increased warming.
- Mitigation solutions exist and “maintaining emission-intensive systems may, in some regions and sectors, be more expensive than transitioning to low emission systems.”
- The increase in cumulative emissions makes some changes to our climate unavoidable and irreversible. But not changing course would increase “the likelihood of abrupt and/or irreversible changes, including…when tipping points are reached.”
- To deliver 1.5°C, we need “deep, rapid and sustained mitigation and accelerated implementation of adaptation actions in this decade.” This will require considerable upfront investment and “large and sometimes disruptive changes in existing economic structures, with significant distributional consequences within and between countries.”
- Climate change disproportionately impacts the global population, and approximately 3.3–3.6 billion people are highly vulnerable. The economic impacts of climate change are most visible in the agriculture, forestry, fishery, energy, and tourism industries.
- It is fundamental to focus on “equity, climate justice, social justice, inclusion and just transition processes” and to promote cooperation when implementing adaptation and ambitious mitigation.
- Several options exist to address “emission-intensive consumption” that require behavior and lifestyle changes, but bring overall societal well-being.
- If we overshoot 1.5°C, global warming could “gradually be reduced again by achieving and sustaining net negative global CO2 emissions.” But generating negative emissions comes with larger concerns; and the overshoot will still generate irreversible impacts and risks for humans and nature.
The world is not adapting fast enough to climate impacts, and this gap “will continue to grow.” The key barriers are lack of finance and engagement from both the private and public sector. Adaptation solutions that work now will become “constrained and less effective” as warming increases.
The Acceleration Agenda
In response to the IPCC report, UN Secretary-General Guterres’ Acceleration Agenda advances specific measures to phase out fossil fuels, including the following. These begin to determine how success at the UN Climate Conference this year (COP28) in Dubai will be measured.
- No new coal, and the end of all international public and private funding of coal and of licensing or funding for new oil and gas.
- Net-zero electricity generation by 2035 for all developed countries and 2040 for the rest of the world
- A halt to the expansion of existing oil and gas reserves.
- A shift in subsidies from fossil fuels to a just energy transition
- A global phase-down of existing oil and gas production, compatible with the 2050 global net-zero target.
Company Action That Meets the Moment
With the IPCC report and Acceleration Agenda pointing to an urgent path forward, businesses can respond to their call with climate action commensurate to the latest science.
1. Embrace 1.5°C as a floor and accelerate delivery across the value chain
The narrowing path toward 1.5°C is no reason to retreat. On the contrary, accelerating value chain reductions will limit climate impacts. Business and governments alike need to deliver decarbonization commensurate with the change required by science. This will require transformation of business models as much as incremental reductions during this decade. Areas of immediate focus include transitioning away from fossil fuels; creating and implementing clear, transparent and robust climate transition plans; and accelerating delivery of scope 3 goals.
2. Redefine business growth within planetary boundaries
In a recent blog, we suggested it was time for companies to move beyond incremental change and explore the tension between business growth and sustainability goals which align with our planet’s boundaries. This requires an evolution in mindset and in business models to thrive within planetary boundaries.
3. Move from assessing risks to implementing adaptation solutions
The IPCC report recognizes that climate impacts are proving more severe than previously thought and will grow even more severe as global warming continues, potentially creating compound and cascading effects that are difficult to predict. Still, adaptation is absent in most business and climate strategies. Implementing adaptation solutions, including leveraging nature, will be key to limiting impacts on the workforce, surrounding communities, and global supply chains.
4. Develop holistic solutions centered around climate justice, just transition, and nature
The IPCC points out examples of “maladaptation” that blunt climate impacts but cause negative social impacts or impacts to nature. To avoid this, businesses can work toward climate justice by considering people and vulnerable communities in their climate strategies and implementation plans and integrating nature-positive solutions in their climate strategies.
5. Advocate for strong climate policy
Current policies are insufficient to avoid climate catastrophe, and we have yet to advance policies that will enable a just transition. Business can and should support climate policy at the national level in material jurisdictions and at the international level, e.g., through the We Mean Business Coalition. At the same time, it is key that businesses engage with, or withdraw from, trade associations that act against climate policy.
6. Financing climate solutions and stopping harmful funding
Finance flows are needed to tremendously accelerate to support deep emissions cuts and adaptation in the very short term. Business can direct investment to support real climate solutions, including nature and scaling removals.
At the same time, the financial sector can and should drastically accelerate the redirection of financial flows away from harmful investments (such as fossil fuel infrastructure) toward scaling climate solutions.
Business Resilience in the Coming Years
The IPCC’s Sixth Assessment Report not only intensifies the climate and sustainability agenda; it reminds us that climate impacts will continue to worsen as we advance, tenth of a degree by tenth of a degree, toward and past safe thresholds for our planet. Business will do more than they have before while they face increasing stakeholder pressure. As the climate deteriorates, business can focus on cross-cutting sustainability issues, from redefining business growth, to developing holistic policies, to implementing new adaptation solutions, all of which will meet the moment with credible action.
Blog | Thursday March 23, 2023
Inside BSR: Q&A with MaryAnne Howland
Inside BSR is our monthly series featuring BSR team members from around the world. Meet MaryAnne Howland, a Director based out of BSR New York’s office.
Blog | Thursday March 23, 2023
Inside BSR: Q&A with MaryAnne Howland
Preview
Tell us a bit about your background. Where are you from, and where are you based?
I live in Gallatin, Tennessee, and I am a proud mother to my son, John Robert. My father, Homer Howland, is a descendant of John Howland, a servant who came over on the Mayflower. My mother, June Irene, is a descendant of enslaved Africans who arrived in Virginia.
I grew into womanhood through the literature of Zora Neale Hurston, Maya Angelou, and Toni Morrison. Their influence is how and why I became a writer. My first book, Warrior Rising: How Four Men Helped a Boy on His Journey to Manhood, was published in 2020. I turned my obsession with National Geographic into a freelance career as a travel writer, and I have been published in Fielding’s and Open Roads Travel Guides. I have visited more than 100 cities, covering every continent except one.
My passions include theater, the arts, and tennis. My personal mission is to open a national dialogue on the importance of mentorship, intentional parenting, and respect and dignity for people with disabilities.

Tell us about your previous professional experiences.
I began my career as a writer in the communications department at Time Inc., convincing leaders why they need Time and Fortune Magazines for reliable business news. For over two decades, I grew as a writer to become a global business consultant, and I have served a portfolio of clients across a wide range of industries in pursuit of transformation from corporate social responsibility to corporate social significance.
In 1993, I founded Ibis Communications, an award-winning branding and marketing firm specializing in multicultural marketing, and in 2012, I founded the Global Diversity Leadership Exchange (GDLE), a forum designed to serve senior-level executives on the front lines of driving diversity in global markets. In 2014, GDLE became a member of the UN Global Compact.
In 2018, I co-founded JEDI Collaborative, an initiative created to support the natural products industry. I continue to support these enterprises that help companies elevate their brand and enhance relationships that fan the mission of justice, equity, dignity, inclusion, and sustainability.
I help communicate our mission in speeches and lectures at colleges, universities, and various corporate conferences and events, covering topics such as structural racism in business, conscious capitalism, and human value—a JEDI approach to business leadership for a compassionate economy.
What issues are you passionate about and why? How does your work at BSR reflect that?
In my years of work to help brands bridge to multicultural markets, I have learned that progress has been very slow in fulfilling the promises around diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI). Being the mother of a Black boy with cerebral palsy and ADHD who has had to face a world ill-prepared and unwilling to embrace and nurture his talent and abilities simply because he is “different" has shaped my worldview of the level of commitment and investment that is necessary to shift from systemic inequities to justice.
Personally, I believe the move from performative acts of DEI toward measurable impact begins with understanding human value and treating everyone with dignity and respect.
I believe that “JEDI”—justice, equity, dignity, and inclusion—has never been more important to cultural transformation. JEDI is more than a traditional DEI practice—it is a mindset, a lens through which you recognize the value in others, that opens hearts and helps to build trust and authentic relationships that achieve diversity that is sustainable. Various sustainability issues, such as climate change, voting rights, and human rights, demand that all voices and perspectives are engaged and reflected in the solutions that impact each one of us.
I am excited about my new role at BSR at the intersection of sustainability and equity, justice and inclusion (EIJ) because progress cannot be made without the voices and perspectives of all of us, especially those who have been historically excluded.
International Women’s Day took place earlier this month. How can business advance on EIJ policies?
I think of the women I have met across the country and in various walks of life in cities and townships around the world, at various levels of means, working moms, single moms, sisters, daughters, some respected, some abused, undervalued, and underpaid.
From Appalachia to Afghanistan to the aborigine of Australia, from India to Iran, women of every color and every culture deserve at the very least the dignity of living wages, quality healthcare, higher education, and to be safe and protected citizens.
It is corporate and public policy that informs business practices that impact disparity gaps in nearly every aspect of quality of life for women, including ethnic minorities and people with disabilities. Business needs to start with an honest assessment and a deep cleanse of systemic inequities in all of their systems and operations and develop and implement new policies that effectively and permanently close these gaps.
People
Amina Azmat
Amina works with partners across industries to develop and implement climate change solutions with a focus on aligning to the sustainable development goals (SDGs). Before joining BSR, Amina led internal consulting at the United Nations Foundation, where she provided advisory services to SDG teams. She grew and transitioned new business…
People
Amina Azmat
Preview
Amina works with partners across industries to develop and implement climate change solutions with a focus on aligning to the sustainable development goals (SDGs).
Before joining BSR, Amina led internal consulting at the United Nations Foundation, where she provided advisory services to SDG teams. She grew and transitioned new business initiatives into their permanent operating models; oversaw the Foundation’s annual planning, risk management, and due diligence processes; and led strategic initiatives to ensure the Foundation’s programmatic, financial, and operational success. Prior to that, Amina worked on the ground in areas of conflict and migration in the Middle East, and she began her career as a market researcher in the consumer products industry.
Amina holds a BS in Business Administration with a concentration in Marketing and minors in International Affairs and Political Science from Northeastern University in Boston, Massachusetts. She speaks English and Urdu.
Blog | Thursday March 16, 2023
Redefining Business Growth within Planetary Boundaries
BSR team members dscuss the need for new strategies to help business address the tension between traditional growth-based models and sustainability goals.
Blog | Thursday March 16, 2023
Redefining Business Growth within Planetary Boundaries
Preview
The Environmental Crisis Is the Defining Issue of Our Time
Economic, equitable progress and wider prosperity that is limited to planetary boundaries are the greatest challenges that business faces–but current environmental trends are alarming.
Despite increasing commitments to reduce our global environmental impacts, already, five of the nine planetary boundaries have crossed into the high-risk area. Consequently, surpassing such boundaries greatly increases risks to our planet, people, and the economy.
Making matters worse, nine out of sixteen tipping points that regulate the state of the entire climate system are showing signs of instability—which could bring unpredictable damage to Earth, making it extremely difficult to achieve the Sustainable Development Goals. On climate, for example, the 1.5°C goal is slipping out of reach, emissions increased in the 2010s, and several climate impacts are now considered irreversible.
All of these events are occurring against the backdrop of a polycrisis, with increasing economic pressure and social inequality across the globe. The latest IPCC report confirmed that every fraction of a degree escalates further risks for people, the planet, and business.
Credible Business Action to Meet the Moment
The private sector has a key role to play in accelerating the global response to the polycrisis. Business will face increasing stakeholder scrutiny to deliver holistic solutions that truly address the environmental and social crisis and to move from commitment to delivery.
Beyond incremental change, a new phase of credible business action is required to meet the moment. In the last decades, business focused action on “low-hanging fruit” efforts to deliver efficiency (energy savings, switching to renewable energy, leaner production processes, etc.), aiming to “do less harm” and decouple environmental impacts, and GHG emissions specifically, from business growth without fundamentally shifting their traditional business model.
This has led to several examples of relative decoupling, where impacts (resource use, emissions) are reduced compared to business-as-usual. Nevertheless, overall impact continues to increase while business activity (e.g., sales) grows.
Increasingly, businesses are facing questions on whether their existing models are sustainable and resilient in the face of these challenges. Traditional growth-based business models, even ones with substantial sustainability strategies, can be at odds with long-term, transformational environmental goals necessary to deliver against the current crisis. As a result, many businesses will be forced to make compromises between their business objectives and their ambitious environmental targets (e.g., net zero, nature-positive).
Designing Alternative Business Models
While many businesses understand the need to transform their models in the face of these macro challenges, few solutions have emerged beyond experiments and pilot projects. A thriving business within planetary boundaries will need to innovate and explore new strategies, addressing the current tension between traditional growth-based models and the pursuit of environmental and societal goals.
BSR believes that exploring alternative models can improve business resilience and achieve key environmental objectives within the planetary boundaries while also ensuring long-term value. Alternative strategies can include scaling up circular approaches that remain peripheral for many businesses, but also exploring the business implications of theories such as sufficiency and degrowth, which so far remain macroeconomic concepts with limited business applications.
There are no simple, ready-made solutions to address the current challenge, but we believe business model innovation holds strong potential to deliver within planetary boundaries. BSR is ready to partner with members and explore what alternative models would look like and the role of business in this transformation to deliver our vision of a just and sustainable world.
Blog | Wednesday March 8, 2023
Accelerating Equality for Women Workers in Global Garment Supply Chains through New Initiative RISE
Learn about RISE, a collaborative initiative from BSR’s HERproject, Gap Inc. P.A.C.E, CARE, and Better Work to scale impact and accelerate equality for women workers in global garment supply chains.
Blog | Wednesday March 8, 2023
Accelerating Equality for Women Workers in Global Garment Supply Chains through New Initiative RISE
Preview
This International Women’s Day, BSR is celebrating the launch of RISE (Reimagining Industry to Support Equality), a collaborative initiative from BSR’s HERproject, Gap Inc. P.A.C.E, CARE, and Better Work to scale impact and accelerate equality for women workers in global garment supply chains.
We asked Aron Cramer, President and CEO, BSR and Christine Svarer, Executive Director, RISE about the formation and ambition for the initiative.
Combining the fashion industry’s four largest women’s empowerment programs seems like a logical move. How did it come about?
Christine: Having had a relatively similar journey, since each of the four founding partners started working on women’s empowerment around 2007, we have been collaborating on specific initiatives in an ad hoc fashion. It’s been a friendly coexistence. However, in recent years, we’ve noticed bumping into each other in the same workplaces, sometimes delivering very similar activities. This means there is potential for duplication and confusion across the industry, potentially leading to fatigue in the same way we’ve seen with audits and inefficient deployment of resources, halting our ability to support a greater number of workers.
For a very long time, we have been saying to business that advancing gender equality is best done in a collaborative manner. No one entity can tackle this alone. With that, it was quickly clear that coming together as one single entity was the only way to accelerate progress on gender equality in supply chains.
What do you hope RISE will achieve that was not possible as individual initiatives?
Aron: We are certainly proud of what we have been able to accomplish through the 15 years of HERproject. But we are also aware that there are systemic barriers to women’s empowerment, and they require systemic solutions. There are three simple and structural reasons why RISE can achieve even greater impact. First, we can remove duplication and redundancy in the delivery of our respective programs. Second, we can leverage each other’s strengths, as we each bring slightly different assets and experience to our work. And third, we can speak with one voice, and that consistency will enable greater impact both operationally and as we aim to influence markets and policy.
We believe that the result of all this will be a collective ability to reach more women—and men—to ensure women can thrive in their roles in global garment supply chains.
As it is International Women’s Day, can you give us an idea of the international reach of RISE and how it supports women garment workers?
Christine: We are immensely proud to have supported more than five million workers in over 20 countries in partnership with 70 global companies. There is still a long way to go if we want to see women workers fulfill their economic potential, supported by industry and other key stakeholders.
Women workers continue to be concentrated in low-wage, low-skilled, low-status roles. While these jobs offer women access to employment in the formal economy —which is important—women workers still face barriers such as discriminatory social norms, limited access to formal financial services, exclusion from career advancement and higher-paying opportunities, and risk of sexual harassment and gender-based violence in the world of work.
RISE works to tackle all these barriers in its workplace activities. We want to complement that by intentionally working with brands, buyers, and suppliers to activate strategies that both embed and reward progress on gender equality.
We also have plans to set up a data platform that can both map live activities to avoid duplication as well as produce a simple set of data points to support businesses in making gender-responsive decisions, inform worker representatives and policymakers, and increase the visibility of women workers.
How will RISE help the fashion industry deliver real action and impact for businesses and women workers?
Aron: We believe that RISE can truly elevate women’s empowerment in the global apparel sector. Through RISE, the industry will be able to apply leading edge programs to enable women to thrive. The initiative will provide a common platform on which all elements of the industry—buyers, suppliers, workers, workers’ representatives, and local communities—can learn from and contribute to. We hope it will be recognized as a new norm for the industry: something that both enables and demonstrates a strong commitment from all industry stakeholders.
From our experience with HERproject, we know that doing so delivers great benefits for women and strengthens the enterprises that embrace the model. We see RISE as being able to create a new norm that can define the industry at a time of immense change.
How can business get involved with RISE?
Christine: RISE is based on membership from brands, buyers, and suppliers anywhere in the world. So, the first step is to get on board as a member. In addition, we work with our member companies to enroll workplaces within their supply chain—either individually or together with other brands, buyers, and suppliers—into one of the RISE programs which we develop and deliver in partnership with local organizations. We also work with both our company and donor partners to continuously deepen our impact and scale. For example, we’re currently working with a small set of companies on evolving our approach to gender-based violence. We’re also looking for company partners who want to help us build our approach to women’s advancement and leadership.
RISE is a platform for collaborative action. Contact us. We’d very much like to hear your ideas.
Blog | Tuesday March 7, 2023
Fashion Industry’s Four Largest Women’s Empowerment Programs Form New Initiative RISE to Scale Impact
Alongside Gap Inc., P.A.C.E, CARE, and Better Work, BSR’s HERproject is proud to form a new initiative called RISE: Reimagining Industry to Support Equality to scale impact and accelerate equality for women workers in global garment, footwear, and home furnishings supply chains.
Blog | Tuesday March 7, 2023
Fashion Industry’s Four Largest Women’s Empowerment Programs Form New Initiative RISE to Scale Impact
Preview
BSR’s HERproject, Gap Inc., P.A.C.E, CARE, and Better Work have come together to form a new initiative called RISE: Reimagining Industry to Support Equality in order to scale impact and accelerate equality for women workers in global garment, footwear and home furnishings supply chains.
The launch of RISE, ahead of International Women’s Day on March 8, comes as greater support is needed for women workers. It is estimated 75 percent of the 60 million garment workers are women who may experience gender inequality, and instances of harassment or violence at work, among other systemic barriers to empowerment and gender equity (source: the ILO). The COVID-19 pandemic and an increasingly difficult financial environment add to mounting pressure on women workers.
RISE will support global brands to empower women workers in their garment, footwear and home furnishings supply chains and have a wider impact on promoting gender equality in the industry as a whole. RISE will pursue its mission through three core strategies: (1) strengthening knowledge and skills for factory workers and managers, (2) transforming business practices to include gender equality, and (3) influencing public policy and other key actors.
RISE will build on the proven approaches and expertise of the four founding partners, delivered through a growing network of local partners in Bangladesh, China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Indonesia, India, Egypt and Pakistan. A unified approach will make it easier and more efficient for industry and wider stakeholders to drive accelerated and lasting impact on gender equality. It will also improve efficiency through the coordination of activities, a shared data system, and eliminating duplication.
The four founding partner organizations already work with 50 of the world’s largest apparel, footwear and home furnishings brands and have reached more than five million women workers globally. The ambition is to increase this to up to 20 million workers over the next decade. Companies who are supporting the development of RISE include Abercrombie & Fitch Co., Aje and Aje Athletica, AEO Inc (American Eagle and Aerie), BESTSELLER, Boden, Capri Holdings, Carter’s, Columbia Sportswear Company, Dôen, Hanna Andersson, Gap Inc., Inditex, Macy’s Inc., Marks & Spencer, New Balance, Primark, PVH Corp., Ralph Lauren, Tapestry, Inc., Target, The Children’s Place, The Walt Disney Company, The Warehouse (NZ), Victoria’s Secret & Co., VF Corporation, Williams-Sonoma, Inc.
RISE’s capacity building workplace programs aim to increase women workers’ dignity and equality in the workplace, by changing both behaviors and systems. The programs expand women workers’ choices and their ability and confidence to pursue their rights and opportunities. The training also engages male managers and coworkers to challenge social norms in the workplace. Program topics range from life skills such as communication and problem solving, general and reproductive health, financial health and security, freedom from sexual harassment and gender-based violence, and women's advancement and leadership.
RISE goes beyond workplace programs to bring positive change to the whole industry and influence policy improvements. It includes workers’ voices and representation at every level from governance to project implementation, ensuring that the work responds to women workers' needs and priorities. RISE has broad stakeholder involvement at its governance: brands, suppliers, labor organizations and unions, and women's movements.
Brands, buyers and suppliers can become a member of RISE and invest in a workplace program in their garment supply chain. Programs are currently operating in Bangladesh, China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Indonesia, India, Egypt and Pakistan.
“It’s time to step up support for women workers in global garment supply chains. RISE will benefit from the proven approaches of its founding partners and go even further to reach more women, expand to more geographies and create more change. Brands and suppliers can join RISE straight away to take serious action towards gender equality,” said Christine Svarer, Executive Director, RISE.
“In joining together to establish RISE, our industry can leverage the strongest elements from each of our proven empowerment programs to have deeper, broader and more consistent impact for the women who work in our supply chains,” said Sally Gilligan, Chief Growth Transformation Officer, Gap Inc. on behalf of Gap Inc. P.A.C.E.
"CARE is excited to be part of this collaborative effort to transform the apparel industry. RISE will bring together stakeholders across the industry—brands, suppliers, women's rights organizations and unions - to achieve systemic change driven by women’s voices," said Lona Stoll, VP Innovation and Impact, CARE.
“Joining BSR’s HERproject with other leading women’s empowerment programs is the logical and necessary next step to take these proven solutions to scale. As a combined force, RISE can navigate through the complex issues of gender equality in global garment supply chains and deliver real action and impact for both businesses and women workers,” said Aron Cramer, President and CEO, BSR.
“The potential of this partnership to influence change at all levels from the enterprise up is unparalleled, as it brings together such a wide range of brands and retailers, and industry stakeholders that all agree about the importance of collaborating to improve working conditions for women, particularly in the garment sector,” said Conor Boyle, Officer in Charge, Better Work.
Better Work is a partnership between the International Labour Organization (ILO) and the International Finance Corporation (IFC), a member of the World Bank Group. Better Work promotes decent work and better business in the garment industry.
CARE is an international humanitarian organization fighting global poverty and world hunger by working alongside women and girls.
Gap Inc. P.A.C.E. program provides women and girls in the global apparel industry the opportunity to thrive with foundational life skills, technical training and support to advance at work, in their lives, and in their communities.
HERproject is a BSR collaborative initiative that strives to empower low-income women working in global supply chains. Bringing together global brands, their suppliers, and local NGOs, HERproject drives impact for women and business via workplace-based interventions on health, financial inclusion, and gender equality.